Dual citizen

Since my last post, I’ve completed the process of making aliyah and am now a dual American-Israeli citizen. It’s something I never imagined doing, but I’m so glad I did.

I’ve gotten a lot of questions about both why I decided to make aliyah and what the process was like.

Why did I make aliyah instead of just getting a temporary resident or work permit? Am I planning on living in Israel forever?

The short answer is: it makes life easier and probably not.

Living in Israel without being a citizen – or having an A1 temporary resident permit – is more difficult. You don’t have a teudat zehut, or Israeli ID number, which is required (or, again, makes things easier) for everything from tax forms to ordering food online. I was surprised at how often I needed this mysterious number that I didn’t possess.

I was also asked, time and again, why I wouldn’t make aliyah, from everyone – potential employers, Israelis I’d just met, bankers. I realized that by not making aliyah, it seemed like I wasn’t committing to living here and that I was planning to leave at any moment.

The third reason I made aliyah is for the benefits. The Israeli government actively recruits olim chadashim – new immigrants – and entices us with benefits. Some are part of a “welcome basket” (sadly not given in a basket), and include money to help you in the first months here, breaks on income taxes taken out of your paycheck, ulpan (Hebrew classes – which I desperately need and are NOT cheap if you have to pay out of pocket), 70-90% discounts on Arnona (property taxes), free health care if you don’t have a job and discounted health care even if you do, and more. Honestly, it’s incredibly helpful, especially living in a city with a cost of living that matches that of New York City but salaries on par with Detroit’s (check out this great 1-minute Nas Daily video for more on that).

And as for whether I’ll stay here forever: probably not, but who knows? I’m trying to embrace a more Israeli go-with-the-flow attitude; as long as I’m happy here, I plan to stay here. We’ll see how hard – and when – homesickness truly sets in.

What’s the process like?

There’s a lot about the process of making aliyah that’s tedious and frustrating and time consuming. Nonetheless, I realize that it’s much easier to gain citizenship in Israel as an American Jew than it is for many others in other countries.

The entire process took about a month. American Jews have the added benefit of help from Nefesh B’Nefesh, an agency that speeds up and simplifies the process. The main steps:

• Fill out a whole lotta forms for Misrad Hapnim – the Ministry of the Interior – including basic information in addition to family history and Jewish history
• Get a hold of my original birth certificate and an original letter from my rabbi back in the US stating that I’m Jewish and born to a Jewish mother (this meant I had to have my sister bring them over from the US – luckily, she was visiting when I needed them!)
• Find an Israeli lawyer willing to watch me sign, then co-sign, a document stating that I’m not a criminal in the US and haven’t perpetrated any crimes against Jews or the State of Israel
• Take a day off work to go to Jerusalem to actually complete the process with Nefesh B’Nefesh, where Misrad Hapnim was on-site to give me my teudat zehut

And with that, I was an Israeli citizen. Easy, right? No, there were more steps after that to get my teudat oleh – my immigrant ID – that would get me the benefits.

• Go to the bank, make a deposit with the teller (for which there’s a fee – there’s a fee to ever interact with the teller) so that I could get a deposit slip to present to Misrad Haklita (Ministry of Absorption). Also meet with a private banker to transfer my bank account to being connected to my US passport to my teudat zehut. (1 hour)
• Go in to Misrad Haklita, all forms in hand, to fill out another form (1 hour)
• Wait for a call from Misrad Haklita to make an appointment to set up my benefits (a couple of days)
• Go back to Misrad Haklita for my appointment to set up my benefits and payments (and the adviser didn’t speak English, so we had to have the receptionist translate) (30 minutes)
• Take forms from Misrad Haklita to Bituach Leumi (National Insurance Institute) to decide on which health insurance company to go with and sign up (and hopefully I’ll get my card in the mail someday soon) (30 minutes)
• Go back yet again to Misrad Haklita because I didn’t realize I needed to have decided which Ulpan to take at my last meeting in order to get the voucher (30 minutes)
• Go back to Misrad Haklita a third (and hopefully last) time, three weeks later (because Passover), to meet with an adviser to go over my benefits more and ask any questions (1 hour… I hope. Not yet completed)
• Go to the municipality to set up my arnona discounts (who knows how long that will take)

After all this is done, I’ll start the process of converting my US driver’s license to an Israeli one, which I have until August 23 to do (one year after my arrival date).

It’s a lot of work, but it’s worth it. I can’t believe I’m still on this adventure. Every day is a new challenge, but each time I accomplish something, it’s a great feeling.

I’m going back to the states at the end of the week for a short one-week visit, and I can’t wait – plus, I’ll get to come back through customs in Israel as a resident!

Should I stay or should I go? (Pt. II)

As 2016 comes to a close, I’ve made the decision you’ve all been waiting for…

I’m staying in Tel Aviv for a bit longer.

I don’t have a set amount of time I plan to be here; it will largely depend on the job I get and how integrated I feel into everyday life here. I’ve found an apartment (assuming everything goes well tomorrow with the lawyer!) with a lease through September, and now I’m waist-deep in job hunting.

Why did I decide to stay? Ultimately, it came down to this: I don’t want to regret not staying for longer. Five months is really not that long, and certainly not long enough to really know a city (or country). I know that if I move back to the U.S. now, I would probably never move back to Israel; in contrast, if I stay here, I can always go back to the U.S. if I decide it’s not for me.

Also: the Mediterranean, shakshuka, krembo, 1+1 deals, Thursday nights and Shabbat.

The Druze in Israel

For our fourth trip as part of the Destination Israel program, we traveled to Haifa, Israel’s third-largest city. The focus of the day was on Israel’s minorities – a unique angle. We learned about three religions – the Druze, the Baha’i and the Ahmadhiyya. In this post I’m focusing on the Druze – in part because I took the most notes, but I also found it the most interesting.

There are 136,000 Druze in Israel and three to four million worldwide. The Druze religion began in Egypt 1,000 years ago as an offshoot of Muslim Shi’ite. Their prophet spread the religion for 25 years; after that time, the gates to the religion closed – no one else could convert to Druze. To this day, there are no Druze converts; the only Druze are those born to two Druze parents.

The Druze follow six books written only in Arabic. They are never translated into other languages, and are all handwritten, never copied. Only the religious Druze are permitted to read.

The Druze have one main holiday, Eid al-AdHa, which celebrates Abraham’s willingness to sacrifice Isaac. It’s 14 days long; the first 10 days are for the religious Druze, and the last four are for all the Druze to come together and sacrifice sheep. The most important thing during the holiday is to volunteer and sacrifice the self.

At the age of 15, Druze teens decide whether they want to be religious or non-religious. After the age of 15, they are given the opportunity to switch two more times. The majority of Druze choose to be non-religious at 15 (not a surprise!) and may change their minds later in life.

Parents must grant their children permission to marry before a couple can become engaged. The groom must bring the bride gold; the bride can then sell the gold to help the family if they fall on hard times in the future. The groom has to build a house for the couple with his own money. After the wedding ceremony, the couple moves into the house. If they divorce (and women are permitted to request a divorce), the groom gets 50%.

The Druze communities are usually not in contact with other Druze communities outside the country, but they can marry a Druze from another village or community. In those cases, the woman must move to the husband’s country or community.

If a Druze marries a non-Druze, the couple is cast out of their village, and their children are not considered Druze. Intermarriage is more common outside of Israel than inside, because Druze feel they have more freedom to practice their religion in Israel (and therefore meet other Druze to marry) than in many of the surrounding Arab countries.

When I asked whether the Druze were concerned about a potentially shrinking population due to intermarriage, I was told that they aren’t – because they believe in reincarnation. The soul of a Druze who dies immediately goes into a newborn baby, so there is always a Druze soul for a Druze body. Some Druze, especially those who died in tragic ways, remember their past lives.

The Druze don’t have their own country; they believe in one G-d who is everywhere, so everywhere is holy. They have five main colors: green (nature), red (love and loyalty), yellow (strength), blue (water and sky) and white (hope and pure heart). The colors are seen in different incarnations throughout Druze communities.

One of the most unique aspects about the Druze is that they are always loyal to the country in which they live. The Druze were the only people who consistently stuck by the Jews and Israel when the world turned against Israel. Non-religious Druze men go into the Israeli army’s combat units, comprising the highest rate of minorities int he Israeli army. Sometimes they have to fight against other Druze; our guide referenced the 2nd Lebanon War in 2006 in particular.

Though the Druze generally side with the Jews in conflicts with Palestinians, they still face discrimination. They’re sometimes viewed as Arabs, not Israelis, and at times feel the Israeli government doesn’t want to put in the time and money to develop their communities because of that. They also face inequality in the workplace, particularly when they want to advance in their careers. Nonetheless, they still feel it’s easier to live in Israel than other Arab or Muslim countries.

Though Israel is a Jewish country, there are so many other religions and nationalities who reside here. If we don’t take the time to learn about – and from – them, how can we expect those in Christian, Arab or even non-religious countries to learn about the Jews?

Haifa

Ahmadiyya Muslim Community – Mahmood Mosque

Baha’i Gardens

Should I stay or should I go?

When I arrived in Israel in late August, I did so with an open mind: I didn’t have a clue whether I’d stay past the program end in January. I told myself that I’d go with the flow and give myself time to make up my mind. The goal, ultimately, was to make this decision by the end of December, so that if I decided to return to the U.S. I could begin my job search (and, conversely, if I were to stay in Israel, start finding a job/housing here).

Now, It’s the second week of December, and I don’t feel any closer to a decision than I did before. I had days when I was sure I would stay, and days that I’ve wanted nothing more than to return home in 2017.

I’ve tried pro/con lists, which have helped to an extent, but have certainly not been definitive. Below I’ll share some of my reasons – just a few of the selected, more publicly-appropriate ones, of course. Over the next few weeks I’ll be doing some serious soul-searching to hopefully come to a decision.

PRO: STAY IN ISRAEL!

• More time to explore Tel Aviv and the whole of Israel
• Easier (and cheaper) to travel to other European countries
• It’s an adventure
• Learning opportunities
• Pushing myself out of my comfort zone
• I don’t have to figure out a new job and new city back in the U.S.
• No need for a car
• I really love this city.
• The Mediterranean and the beach

• The weather (and not returning to the U.S. in the dead of winter)

CON: GO BACK TO THE US!

• If I stay, I need to put in a lot more effort to learn Hebrew. If I go home, it’s back to my first language.
• I really miss my friends and family – and my cat, Leinie.

Look at that cat. How could you not miss him??

• The eight-hour time difference makes it hard to stay connected to those back home.
• I’d surely make more money.
• Cost of living in Tel Aviv is really high – groceries, bills, especially housing
• Summer in Israel is brutal.
• Living in the U.S. is just EASIER. It’s easier to do things like go to a clinic, deal with customer service representatives and get things fixed (like my phone, which is barely functioning) – and not just because of the language barrier.
• I could afford to join a gym and start working out again. I’d probably eat more healthily, too (probably… not definitely).
• A majority of the people I know here are on this program and leaving at the end of January. That said, I’m pushing myself this next month to get to more events and meet more people, especially Israelis.

Advice? I’ll take it. Affordable apartments in Tel Aviv? Any jobs back in the U.S. that would tempt me to come back even more? Oh, I’ll definitely take those.

Eastern Eurotrip: Prague & Budapest

On our program’s “vacation week,” my friend Rachael let me tag along on her already-planned trip to Prague and Budapest. We spent Monday morning to Wednesday afternoon in Prague, took a 7-hour train to Budapest, and stayed there for the remainder, until late Saturday afternoon. It was wonderful, beautiful, eye-opening – and freezing cold. A huge, huge thanks to Rachael for being the chief planner and navigator and all-around great companion for this trip!

Prague had a magical small-town feel with its quiet cobblestone streets and lack of traffic. I didn’t realize how much I miss the Christmas season until I got to Prague, where there was a Christmas market on every other street. Budapest felt bigger, more like a real city where people lived and worked, while simultaneously full of history.

Some of the highlights of our time in Prague:

• The Hostel Downtown: It was cute and quiet. We had our own room with private bathroom, which was stellar. We also funnily enough met two guys as we were checking out who were also on their way to Budapest, and met up with them in there. The hostel was friendly and clean and we’d would recommend it to anyone!

• Prague Castle and St. Vitus Cathedral: Beautiful architecture inside and out, and a high vantage from which to see all of Prague.

• Museum of Communism: Extremely informative and interesting. I honestly didn’t know a great deal about Communism or how recently Prague emerged from its governance.

• Jewish Quarter: Several synagogues and the Old Jewish Cemetery. It used to be the home of the Jewish ghetto, full of terrible housing and living conditions, but has since evolved into the most expensive area to live (and shop) in Prague. We went inside of the Spanish Synagogue, which included a display and history of Jews in Prague.

Spanish Synagogue

• Den Noc: A family friend recommended this breakfast spot. We had amazing, amazing savory pancake stacks (stack one: mushrooms, onions, goat cheese; stack two: bacon, feta, lime, basil, avocado). Best meal in Prague for sure.

• Velvet Revolution Memorial: This was directly across from our hotel. Had we not checked out the Museum of Communism, we wouldn’t have known what it was or its importance: “This is a memorial to one of the most crucial moments in Czech (and Czechoslovak) history – the beginning of the Velvet Revolution on November 17th. On this date a large crowd, made up predominantly of students, headed towards Wenceslas Square from Vyšehrad, where they had been marking the 50th anniversary of the Nazi occupation. When they reached Národní, they were confronted by riot police, who charged, leaving hundreds severely beaten. Actors and theatre employees immediately called a strike, which led ultimately to the formation of the Civic Forum.”

• Hot honey wine: Enough said.

 

And in Budapest:

• Szent Istvan Bazilika, housing the fist of the first king of Hungary: Beautiful architecture, and the only stop we made it to on our walking tour before freezing to death and needing to dodge inside.

• Memorial for the Victims of the German Occupation/Living Memorial: This memorial is actually very controversial. It’s called the Memorial for the Victims of the German Occupation, but many feel that it’s incorrect and skews facts, trying to paint Hungary in a more positive light and ignore that it was allied with the Third Reich. So there’s now the “Living Memorial,” this unofficial display, which includes photos of Hungarian Holocaust victims, authentic documents and personal relics. More info here (or check out the text in the photos below).

• Ruin pubs/Szimpla Kert: Ruin pubs are a tradition in Budapest. In the beginning of the 21st century, people opened new pubs in old buildings that were slated for demolition. They’re outfitted with old furniture, graffiti and more. Szimpla Kert is the most famous of the ruin pubs, and has tons of different rooms, bars and floors inside. It’s an awesome experience.

Terrible picture. My apologies.

• Shoes on the Danube: This art installation comprises 60 pairs of rusted period shoes cast out of iron intended to represent those killed by the Arrow Cross Militia during the Holocaust, many of whom were shot into the Danube River.

• Dohany Street Synagogue: This is the largest synagogue in Europe and the second largest in the world, and its design is based mainly on Islamic models from North Africa and medieval Spain. It previously stood as the border to the Budapest Ghetto and includes memorials to Holocaust victims.
  • The Garden of the Just memorial: The weeping willow statue has names of individual victims of the Hungarian Holocaust engraved on its leaves. The stone columns have names of people who saved Jews.
  • The Garden of Remembrance: Where the bodies of more than 2,000 Jews who froze or starved to death in the Budapest Ghetto or who died as a result of the siege and brutality of the Arrow Cross are buried in mass graves. Many are still unidentified.

• Jewish Quarter: We ended up getting an AirBnB in the Jewish Quarter (unintentional, I swear!). It was the best place for food and nightlife – so great choice on our part…! Our favorite dinner spot was Cirkusz – amazing food.

Duck confit over red cabbage and a potato latke

• Szechenyi Baths: The most famous of the thermal baths in Budapest. After five days spent frozen, it was wonderful to be outside but in very hot, large pools fed by thermal springs. The most fun part? Watching people sprint in swimsuits, shivering, between the pools (yes, we did the same).

• Palinka: Fruit-infused brandy. This stuff is everywhere… and dangerous. And delicious. Lots of different flavors in varying strengths between 40%-80%.

Palinka amidst tokaji (sweet dessert wine) at one of the Christmas fairs

• Hortobágyi palacsinta: Blintz filled with meat. We finally found it at Kek Rozsa restaurant – delicious. Thanks to our favorite Budapest native Eszti for the recommendation!

Bedouin city of Rahat

This past weekend, we took a trip to the Negev and Eilat. While in the Negev, we had the opportunity to stop in Rahat and hear more about the day-to-day lives of some of Israel’s Bedouins from one of the city’s residents.

The Bedouins are one of Israel’s larger minority populations. Historically they have been a nomadic people, moving throughout the land wherever there was food. Many of us younger Jews have a somewhat idealistic view of Bedouins after staying in Bedouin tents during our Birthright trips, but anyone can tell you that those tents are more of a “Disneyland Bedouin” experience. Many of today’s Bedouins live in unrecognized villages throughout the country, many concentrated in the Negev (the desert in the south of Israel). These villages often lack things like running water or electricity, and may be comprised of makeshift homes and tents rather than formal houses. According to our guide, there are somewhere around 200,000 Bedouin villages, half of which are unrecognized.

The Bedouin tent experience on my Birthright in January 2006

Rahat is a Bedouin city (the only formally-recognized Bedouin city) and one of seven townships created by the Israeli government in the Negev to incentivize Bedouins to move off of their family land. These townships and cities have critical infrastructure we generally associate with towns and cities – electricity, running water, government services, etc. Visiting Rahat and listening to one of its residents – a young man – was eye-opening for all of us, and gave us the opportunity to learn much more beyond the “Disneyland” experience we’d had in the past.

The demographics of Rahat were surprising. Rahat has a population of about 65,000; two-thirds of that population is under the age of 18, with an average age of 20 or 21. Wherever we looked in Rahat, there were children – mostly boys – running around and watching us closely, even following our bus around.

A Bedouin man is allowed to have up to four wives (though few actually have four). Currently under construction is “New Rahat,” being built for teens who want to get married and start families of their own.

In the city, there are 10-12 families – more accurately described as tribes. These families are comprised of thousands of people. We had the opportunity learn more about this family structure and how it worked when our local guide invited us to a tent his family had erected for a weeklong wedding celebration.

We also heard from young women about their lives in Rahat as Bedouins. Though traditional, they’ve also progressed in terms of equality with the times.

Trips like these are essential for those of us who don’t hail from Israel. While an experience like Birthright is important for many young Jews, it is more of a glossy postcard than a detailed letter. It’s important for us to learn more about and from the people – all of the people – who live in Israel.